Batanes Batanes!!!

Below is a detailed account of our adventures in Batanes. My viewpoints are being shared for everyone interested to come and see the islands. 

I got my zest to blog again as soon as I set foot on Batanes' capital, Basco. I knew I had to share this experience the moment our plane landed in the airport and upon seeing the majestic dormant volcano, Mt. Iraya, at the end of the runway. Visiting this place this year wasn't really planned, though it's in my list of places that I'd want to see in the future. 

Passengers boarding Sky Jet's 90-seater plane at the Domestic Airport.

Arrival at Basco Airport. Mt. Iraya can be seen at the end of the runway.

Marcial and I were at the Travel Expo with friends last February 2013 just to look around. At that time, we really had no plans of booking any travel any time soon since we were scheduled to go to Singapore at the end of that month. However, because of Sky Jet's discounted fare of P13.5K (1 pax) for Manila-Basco-Manila, we found ourselves booking for a flight for May 24-27. My last recollection of a round trip ticket for Manila-Basco-Manila through Seair was more or less P20k. So, booking a flight for Sky Jet was an easy decision to make. Recently, Air Philippines opened regular flights to Basco at an even lower fare amounts (please check their website). 

I normally create my own trip itinerary when exploring new territories. But for Batanes, we left it to our selected travel agency, Batanes Travel and Tours, for the tour and accommodation. BTT was on top of the list of agencies offering packaged tours for Batanes when I searched through Google. My contact person from the agency was Dominic Castillejos, I think he owns the agency. He was prompt in answering my numerous queries and was very accommodating throughout the pre-booking stage of the ordeal. Because of this, and the positive reviews that I've read about BTT, we closed the deal with them. As part of the normal booking procedures, you'll be asked to deposit 50% of the entire amount through their BDO account. The remaining 50% will have to be settled 2 weeks before your arrival. Check out BTT's website (http://www.batanestravelandtours.com/) for a more comprehensive information about their offerings, as well as the booking procedures. By the way, we chose Batanes Seaside Logding and Restaurant (BSLR) for the hotel, and we availed the 4D/3N tour. The package fee of P11.9K included accommodation, tours and all meals. By the way, it was in the same hotel where Iza Calzado and Ken Chu (F4) stayed when they filmed the movie "Batanes".

Batanes Seaside Lodging and Restaurant

Iza's, Ken's and the other cast's message of thanks to BSLR after spending days at the hotel while shooting "Batanes"

THE EXPERIENCE

If I am to summarize the trip, Batanes is all about the following:

• The Greenest Hills
• Water (water current is very strong even on a summer day)
• Lighthouses  
• Churches and Chapels

If you're into any or all of these, you'll enjoy the place. I love nature, especially the water, so I had a good time. But if I am to rate the experience, it's 8/10 overall. I was really looking forward for a swim, but at the time of our visit, the tides were either too low on day time or the current was very strong. We had to settle to the public beach at the back of the hotel - the sand was dark but the water was clear. 

The public beach at the back of BSLR.

The view from BSLR's roof top.

Here is our itinerary. Pictures may be found at the end of this page.

DAY 1 - Basco Arrival and Northern Batan Island Tour
  9:00 AM • Hotel Check-In, Breakfast (c/o BSLR) and orientation
12:00 PM • Lunch (c/o Octagon)
1:00 PM • Tour 
                    > Radar Tukon, Mt. Carmel Chapel
                    > PAGASA Station
                    > Fundacion Pacita
                    > Idjang Viewing
                    > Japanese Hideout
                    > Boulder Beach Valugan
                    > Vayang
                    > Naidi Hills, Lighthouse
                    > Sto. Domingo Church
4:00 PM • Back to hotel
7:00 PM • Dinner - Bunker

DAY 2 - Sabtang Island Tour 
  5:30 AM • Early breakfast
6:00 AM • Travel to San Vicente Port
  8:00 AM • Tour 
                    > San Vicente Ferer Church
                    > Savidug Idjang (Fortress)
                    > Savidug Community
                    > Chavayan Community Vernacular Houses
                    > Tinyan Viewing of Pacific Ocean
12:00 PM • Lunch - Nakabuang Beach 
2:30 PM • Travel to San Vicente Port
4:00 PM • Back to hotel
7:00 PM • Dinner - Vatang Grill and Restaurant

DAY 3 - Southern Batan Tour
8:00 AM • Breakfast
  9:00 AM • Tour
                    > Mahatao Town Tour
                    > Mahatao Pier, Vernacular Houses
                    > Oldest Bridge and House in Batanes

                    > Honesty Coffee Shop

                    > San Jose Borromeo Church
                    > Imnajbu, Old Naval Base, Alapad
                    > Song Song Ruins (Batanes Movie, House Scene)
                    > Uyugan Town Tour
                    > Ivana Town Tour
                    > San Jose de Ivana Church
12:00 PM • Lunch - Racuh a Payaman (Marlboro Country)
                    > Diura, Fountain of Youth (Hike)
                    > Tayid Lighthouse, Sumhao Windmills
                    > Chawa Viewdeck
4:00 PM • Back to Hotel
7:00 PM • Dinner - Dive Batanes Hotel

DAY 4 - Flight Back Home
5:00 AM • Breakfast
5:30 AM • Travel to Airport
5:45 AM • Check-In
7:30 AM • Departure to Manila

I bet most agencies follow the same itinerary for a 4D/3N visit. Our tour guide, Wilbert, was assigned by BTT. He fetched us at the airport on day 1. He and our driver, Cleto, accompanied us throughout the trips; there were just the 4 of us in the van.  

Aerial shot of the island.

MY NOTES

*  Air travel from Manila to Basco is an hour and 10 minutes.  Batanes is closer to the southern tip of Taiwan than in Manila.

*  Batanes has 10 islands but only 3 are inhabited - Batan (where Basco is located), Sabtang and Itbayat. The first 2 are more commonly traversed by tourists. If you have the luxury to stay there for a few more days, you can go to Itbayat which is a good 3 to 4 hours sea travel from Batan. Itbayat houses caves and springs and you need to spend the night there before heading back to Basco.

*  Batanes' landscapes closely resemble those of New Zealand and Scotland.

The Landscape - Batan Island

The Landscape - Batan Island

The Landscape - Sabtang Island

*  The Ivatans (it's what the locals are called) are the kindest people I have ever met. The people, young and old, greet you with a smile day in and day out.

Ivatan Lady wearing the Vakul - headgear for protection from rain, wind and sun.

Me wearing the Talugong. This is worn by men, counterpart of women's vakul.

*  For seasoned travelers, you may create your own Batanes itinerary. For the others, I suggest you arrange one with a travel agency especially if you want to have a comprehensive tour of the islands. 

First, there seem to be very few vehicle operators that you can contact for your trips (destinations are quite far from one another) and these operators seem to be already tied up with big travel agencies in the island.

Second, for those planning to visit the nearby island Sabtang, trip schedules from Batan are fixed; at the time of our visit, there were only 2 boats transporting people between the islands. You might not be able to get a trip during peak season as boat operators will most likely prioritize transport of goods and locals between the islands.  

Port of Ivana - This is where you take the boat going to Sabtang Island,
a good 30-minute ride from Batan.  

*  If you opt to create your own itinerary, make sure to schedule your trip to Sabtang not on the day prior to your travel back to Manila. Boat travel between Batan and Sabtang is highly dependent on the sea's current. Boat trips may be cancelled if the waters get unruly and you will have to spend the night in Sabtang. You'd most likely miss your flight back home as flights to Manila are normally scheduled early morning. There are homestays in Sabtang island, though - average cost is about P200.00 per night, excluding the meals.

The Lighthouse that greets tourists coming to Sabtang Island.

*  Generally, there's really not much to see in the islands, except for hills, waters, lighthouses and churches/ chapels. You go there just to relax and commune with nature. If you're expecting for adventure like those in Davao/ Cagayan De Oro or a nightlife like in Boracay, Batanes is not for you.

*  There are places included in the itinerary which are not really interesting at all. 

For example, one would not bother seeing the oldest Spanish bridge or the oldest house in the island, especially if they're not really well-maintained.

I did not enjoy the cold spring (called Fountain of Youth, Day 3 PM tour), because it was crowded by locals at that time. It's some sort of a cemented mini-pool that's around 10-15 feet in diameter with water coming from the mountain. It requires a short hike downhill; vehicles can't get near the pool area.

Fountain of Youth, South of Batan Island

There are plenty of churches and chapels in the islands too. But there is nothing extraordinary about them; there's plenty of them here in Manila. 

*  On the other hand, the top 3 places that caught my interest are the following.

1. Fundacion Pacita (Northern Batan Island). I liked this place the most in Batanes. Visiting the place is a standard in the itineraries offered by travel agencies. The main receiving area of the hotel is atop a hill; hotel rooms are scattered around this area. We were told that, unless you go and buy coffee in the restaurant, you are only allowed to stay in the gardens in front the main area. Well, since Marcial and I both love coffee, we went inside and marvel at the place. Coffee costs P80.00 per person. The hotel is owned by the Abads and showcases works of the artist Pacita (you'll love this place if you love the arts). At the far end, are coffee tables where you get one of the best views in the island.

Fundacion Pacita

Fundacion's Cafe

2. Chavayan Community Vernacular Houses (Sabtang Island). Reading about the famous stonehouses in History classes is totally different from actually seeing them. You need to board the Faluwa (the local boat) to get to Sabtang Island to see the Chavayan Community where rows of stonehouses are built. These houses, the authentic ones, are made of stones and lime paste; roofs are made of cogon which make the interior cold even during summer. Sadly, only a few remain to this day. 

Traditional Ivatan stonehouse.

Only very few of these stonehouses are left today.

3. Racuh a Payaman - Marlboro Country (Southern Batan Island). The place is a  sea of green which gives you the best view of Mt. Iraya and the Pacific Ocean/ South China Sea. It's an elevated piece of land which allows you to breathe the freshest air coming the bodies of water surrounding the island. The place will remind you of a scene from the movie Sound of Music where Julie Andrews sang the movie's theme. When you're there, all you'd want to do is take pictures and lay down all day. 

Marcial and Windows XP :-)

View of Mt. Iraya from Marlboro Country.

*  Hopping between islands can be quite challenging. There's a part between Batan and Sabtang Islands where the Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea meet; hence, the strong current even on a summer day. For those who easily get seasick, remember to take your medicines before the travel. Also, the boats that carry passengers (called Faluwas) have a capacity of 30 pax (the small one). I was told by Wilbert that the Coast Guard checks the boat's capacity before it sails to ensure safety during the trip. By the way, the Faluwas have no "katig" or balance beams as they get easily damaged by strong current. So, it's important that the weight of the content of the boat is properly distributed.

2 Faluwas at the Ivana Port.

*  Of all the dishes that were served during the trip, it's the Ivatans' version of the Adobo that I love the most. Beef, which is common among local delicacies and cheaper than pork in the island, is very tender. All the rest are passable to the palate, just ordinary, not really tasty. One thing I like the most about BTT is that it arranged dinners such that tourists have them in different restaurants each night.

Night 1: Bunker. This is located in Naidi Hills fronting the lighthouse. It used to be a cafe but, due to lack of patrons, was turned into a restaurant that opens only at night. 

The Bunker

 Night 2: Vatang Grill and Restaurant. Requires around 20 minutes of trafficless travel from BSLR. 

Vatang Grill and Restaurant's Interior.

 Night 3: Dive Batanes Hotel. This is my favorite among the 3. Food tasted better than the first 2 restaurants.

Dive Batanes Lodge - Tables for dinner were set-up at the garden area.

*  It's summer from March to June in Batanes, there were only a couple of short rain showers during our stay.

*  Travel must-haves.  

Camera. You won't go to this place as often as in other places in the country. Make sure you capture as much perfect moments as you can while you're there. Did I mention that Batanes is a photographer's paradise?

Insect Repellant. Mosquitoes are plenty at night.  

Sunblock. Apply a generous amount during the trips. The temperature is significantly lower than that in Manila but you'd still want to get protected from UV rays. We really didn't go swimming while we were there but I still got a good tan from the day trips.

Cash. We were told that there is only 1 ATM (Landbank) in Basco, make sure you have enough cash on hand. I doubt if there are establishments that accept credit cards, so no need to bring them there.

Water. Remember to get hydrated all the time.

*  Communication. There is no Globe mobile network/ internet in Batanes. We just  settled with BSLR's wifi connection offered free of charge to its guests; connection is generally slow, though. Smart Telecom has better connectivity throughout the islands. 

*  There are very few souvenir shops in the island. Prices of shirts range from P160.00 to P240.00 in Basco; it's more expensive if you buy them in Sabtang. Sweets (like bukayo and camote chips) may be bought from P15.00 to P75.00. 

*  For those who are massage addicts, there's a spa in Basco, just a short distance from BSLR going to the town proper. Based on the signage, traditional hilot massage is at P350.00 per hour. The spa is open from 10.30AM to 11.00PM daily.

*  On the day of traveling back to Manila, make sure to check-in early as queues can get too long since there are no scanners in the airport. Everything is done manually. 

*  Total cost of damage is P27,000.00 per head.

        P13,200.00 - flight tickets Manila-Basco-Manila

        P11,900.00 - accommodation, tour and all meals (includes breakfast on the first and last days)

        P1,400.00 - pasalubong

        P500.00 - generally, for food items that were consumed outside the package's meal inclusions

So, there. I hope you picked-up something useful from this article. If you have comments or suggestions, you may post them here or add me up in Facebook. 

PS. I've been to places other than Davao and Batanes. I just don't feel like blogging about these other places, yet :-)

Below are more pictures from Batanes; others may be viewed from my FB account. 

Ciao for now!

Mt. Carmel Chapel, Batan.

Fundacion Pacita's Facade, Batan.

Japanese Tunnel (Batan) Built During the War.

Boulder Beach, Batan. 
These stones were said to be excreted during the eruption of Mt. Iraya.

Boulder Beach, Batan.

Naidi Hills, Batan

Naidi Hills, Batan.

Basco Lighthouse, Batan.

Sto. Domingo Church, Batan.

PAGASA Weather Station, Batan.

Art Piece at Fundacion Pacita, Batan.

Sabtang Church.

Savidug Community, Sabtang.

Chavayan Community, Sabtang Weavers Association.

Chavayan Chapel, Sabtang.

Tinyan Viewing, Sabtang.

Tinyan Viewing, Sabtang.

Nakabuang Beach, Sabtang.

Nakabuang Beach, Sabtang.

Nakabuang Beach, Sabtang.

Mahatao Church, Batan.

Oldest Spanish Bridge in Batanes, Batan.

Honesty Cafe, Batan. Everthing is self-service. You pay for whatever you get,
make sure you give the exact amount.

Inside Honesty Cafe, Batan.

This is where a famous scene from Richard and Dawn's movie,
Hihintayin Kita sa Langit, was shot, Batan.

Old US Naval Base, Batan.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Church, Batan.

Marlboro Country, Batan.

Diura Fishing Village, Batan.

South Batan Beach.

Just one of the few lighthouses in Batan.

Chawa Viewdeck, Batan.

Chawa Viewdeck, Batan.